Keyboard Disconnection:
-Try using the included cable
-Try using a different cable you might have on hand
-Try different sources (different ports on computer, powered USB hub, etc.)
-Plug your keyboard into a different computer
-Plug your keyboard cable directly into the laptop/computer instead of plugging the keyboard cable into a USB hub.
Key Chattering:
We have updated our keyboard firmware to fix this issue. If you have not customized your keyboard’s firmware before, download the applicable firmware file for your keyboard here:
- CTRL: https://docs.drop.com/keyboards/drop_ctrl_p_ctrl__default.bin
- ALT: https://docs.drop.com/keyboards/drop_alt_p_alt__default.bin
- SHIFT: https://docs.drop.com/keyboards/drop_shift_p_shift__default.bin
- Carina: https://docs.drop.com/keyboards/drop_carina_p_carina__default.bin
If you have customized your keyboard’s firmware using our web configurator, recompile and download new firmware here: https://drop.com/mechanical-keyboards/configurator . If you manually compiled your own firmware, see this comment: (link to be added here after posting)
Once you have the firmware file, follow the instructions in the “Flashing your keyboard” section here: https://drop.com/talk/9382/how-to-configure-your-ctrl-keyboard
If the firmware update didn't help, you can also swap out the chattering switch with a known good switch to see if the chatter follows the switch or if it persists in the same location.
If it follows the switch, try swapping out the problematic switches.
Key Registering Issues:
- Inspect for any damages. To do this, you can pull the switch from the problematic keys out and check for damage to the pins and/or hot swap socket on the PCBA.
- If you see any bent switch pins, you could straighten out the pins and re-insert them back into the keyboard. Sometimes pins are bent due to improper handling of the package during shipment.
- Use a different cable apart from the included stock cable, and try using the keyboard on a different computer.
- Pinch the contacts. Look for any switch pins that stick out. The switch pins are normally sandwiched between the contacts of the socket. You can pinch the socket contacts together so they can make reliable contact with the switch pins.
Keys are not registering, LED is on:
-Try using the included cable
-Try using a different cable you might have on hand
-Try different sources (different ports on computer, powered USB hub, etc.)
-Plug your keyboard into a different computer
Nonfunctional LED Key:
It could be a faulty LED or faulty LED controller.
- Flash the default configuration.
- Open up the keyboard to check for any visible issues. Check for any over tightened screws.
Nonfunctional LED Keys:
The issue could possibly be related to insufficient power to the keyboard or you may be using an incompatible cable.
The source may not be supplying enough power to the keyboard for it to be fully functional.
- Try the stock cable that came with your order
- Try different ports on the computer or a different source (e.g. powered USB hub)
Not Powering On:
-Use the included stock cable
-Try a known good data transfer USB cable
-Plug into a USB 3.0 port
-Try the other USB-C connector on the keyboard
-Open up the keyboard and check the USB-C connectors for damage
Stabilizer Rattling:
Rattle is sound generated from the internal parts of the stabilizer assembly impacting each other. When the wire hits the inside of the stabilizer insert/plunger, rattling sound can occur.
All of our keyboards have stabilizer rattle in stock form. It is the nature of the parts. The proven method to address this is to add a medium to high-viscosity grease (e.g. PTFE or Silicone grease) to the inside of the stabilizer plunger that will prevent the stabilizer wire from rattling and making noise. The stabilizers need to be removed and disassembled in order to apply the grease. They then need to be reassembled and reinstalled in the keyboard.